Another year and another record is broken by the Bvlgari serial offenders when the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar became the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar (with micro rotor) in the world, at 5.80mm, with the thinnest micro-rotor movement, with a caliber BVL 305 measuring just 2 thick, 75mm (or as thin as watchmaker Bvlgari Antoine Pin noted during his presentation). Of course, we came across this news at the same time as everyone else, but within a few days of that revelation, the Internet did that and spread the news far and wide. Knowing we had Bvlgari pre-booked for the weekend made us seriously consider taking the lead with something else, but the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar grabbed its top news spot. We’ll conclude with a bit more information on another highlight that we hope to return to by the end of the year.
Not quite a simple vanilla perpetual calendar, Bvlgari has made its own variation with this 40mm Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, even if it’s traditionally designed. We can actually truncate the name this way because the Finissimo collection never had a perpetual calendar before, which is surprising. So what’s the dial here? It’s quite busy, with the top half of the dial being occupied by the reverse date. This means that the lower half of the dial consists of the day of the week and month sub-dials, while the leap year indicator at 6 o’clock, is also in reverse format. The simple upstream indicator means that when the hand completes gliding its sundial, it jumps back to its starting point. Bvlgari has a lot of experience with this kind of instruction, thanks to the old days of Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth. Hence, the know-how of both manufacturers is clearly shown here.
We absolutely love this, but we wondered if the leap year could be ruled out here or taken as a window, because it freezes the dial a bit. Another thing that might bother some collectors is the lack moon phase displayBut we think this is completely acceptable here (WOW Thailand editor and moon cycle enthusiast say so ’nuff told me). To be honest, with this dial configuration, including the moon phase display seems impossible. It should be remembered that ultra-thin movements are itself a complication (according to all important people, but also the mighty Jack Forster from Hodinkee), and one might even pose the case that the upstream indicator is a complication (we are not going to jump down this rabbit hole today).
One interesting thing here is that there are two versions from starting here, one in titanium with matching bracelet and another in platinum with leather strap. Mr. Pin said the brand might consider offering a platinum watch with a matching bracelet, which would be very interesting indeed. Finally, we dedicate a sentence or two to another masculine product from the producer, Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando. This is the second collaboration between the Japanese architect and the watchmaker, and this time has a screen that simulates the moon phase. It is actually a representative of the crescent ala Mikazuki, and represents Ando’s hopeful sense of the light at the end of the tunnel we’re all inching towards.
All photos courtesy of Bvlgari.